Reviews

Review: The Cottage, Co. Leitrim

“When was the last time you heard of County Leitrim? “Exactly. I lived to 40 without ever hearing its name spoken. But the second time I saw it, I stayed; [...]

Review: The Marker, Dublin

There is an ancient Chinese blessing – ‘May you live in interesting times’. Except that there isn’t. In truth, the phrase is neither ancient, Chinese, nor a blessing. It was [...]

Lord knows, there’s no danger of going hungry in East Cork. From farm shops to Midleton’s farmers’ market (Saturdays), from Frank Hederman’s smokehouse to the deliciously idiosyncratic Farmgate Cafe, you could [...]

Review: Living Dinners, Dublin

So much of the energy, effort and imagination we invest into food – both as chefs and customers – involves cooking. But what if your meal was almost entirely [...]

Review: Kai Cafe & Restaurant, Galway

There’s an art to a good lunch. Why is it then, that we so often view this humble, middle-of-the-day meal as something to be gotten through – a bit of [...]

Review: Waterford Castle Lodges

It’s one of the most magical hotel arrivals in Ireland. There you are, driving across the country with the weight of the world on your shoulders, when all of a [...]

Review: La Cucina, Limerick

For a country that communicates so much down the pub, over the garden fence, or on street corners, Ireland is strangely bereft of neighbourhood eateries. Beyond the bigger cities, and [...]

Review: Zuni, Kilkenny

Given the smorgasbord of ingredients at our disposal, it’s amazing how many Irish restaurants stick to same-o, same-o menu formulas. It’s nosebag-by-numbers, ticking off the same takes on steak, chicken and [...]

REVIEW: Musashi & Michie, Dublin

Since returning from a recent trip to Kyoto and Osaka, I’ve been busy telling anyone who’ll listen (or ‘annoying’ anyone who’ll listen, more to the point) about the fantastic food, [...]

Review: Fade Street Social, Dublin

There was a time, not so long ago, when the very notion of an ‘Irish cuisine’ would have had gourmands choking on their amuse-bouches. Back then, Irish cooking was firmly [...]

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