Reviews

Review: Source Sligo

There’s a brilliant photograph of Ben Bulben in Source Sligo. Dominating the back wall of the restaurant, it casts the looming mountain – Yeats’s famous “bare Ben Bulben’s head” – as [...]

Tapas are a quintessentially Spanish way of eating. When you think about it, though, shouldn’t this conversation-friendly cuisine, with its sociable portions and sharp focus on ingredients, be a good fit for [...]

Review: Gleeson’s Townhouse, Roscommon

‘Place on a plate’. It’s more than just a foodie catchphrase, you know. Right now, Fáilte Ireland is campaigning to encourage Irish restaurants, bars, cafes and hotels to put local [...]

Review: The Greenhouse, Dublin

At first glance, The Greenhouse seems a pretty straight play for a Michelin Star. Eamon O’Reilly, the man behind One Pico, has teamed up with Mickael [...]

Review: Springfort Hall, Co. Cork

West Cork is by now an internationally-recognised brand. East Cork, thanks to Fota Wildlife Park, the Ballymaloe Empire and Titanic’s 100th anniversary, is gaining ground. Cork City has been visited [...]

Review: Campo de’ Fiori, Bray

In many ways, Italian restaurants are to eating what Irish pubs are to drinking. Both offer an easy experience. Both are grounded in familiar fare. Neither do dress codes. Both [...]

Review: Coopershill, Co. Sligo

I love arriving into a destination at night. From the brash lights of a big city to the glowing windows of a little B&B stashed away in the Irish [...]

Review: Bear, Dublin

Here’s an upside to the downturn. A restaurant taking a raft of cheap, unfashionable and oft forgotten cuts of meat, tarting them up with funky sauces and side dishes, serving them [...]

Review: Dylan Hotel, Dubln

The Dylan certainly does atmosphere. Check the entrance pillars, where a lower case ‘dylan’ is backlit by red light in a steel plaque. Check the refurbished Victorian facade, or the [...]

Review: The Cornstore, Limerick

Last time I visited Limerick, one of the highlights of the trip was an evening meal with friends in The French Table. On Steamboat Quay, we found a classy, hard-working restaurant [...]

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